Hooded Eye Makeup: Pro Tips, Product Picks, and Step-by-Step Techniques

If you have hooded eyes, you know the struggle: makeup disappears into the crease, eyeliner smudges onto your lid, and shimmer gets swallowed up where no one can see it. But here's the good news -ƒaren't a flaw to fix. With the right techniques, you can make them your superpower.

This guide goes beyond the basics to deliver expert-approved tips, targeted product recommendations, and pro-level strategies that truly work for hooded eyes. Whether you're a makeup minimalist or an eyeshadow aficionado, these tricks will help you define, lift, and brighten your eyes - all without smudging or fading.

What Are Hooded Eyes?

Hooded eyes are characterized by excess skin that droops over the crease, making the eyelid appear smaller or hidden when the eyes are open. This unique shape often means that conventional makeup techniques don't work as intended. But when you understand how to work with - not against- your eye shape, the results can be stunning.

Step 1: Prime for Longevity and Visibility

Think of primer as insurance for your eye look. Hooded lids naturally create more friction and trap heat, which means makeup fades faster and smudges more easily. A good base locks everything in place before the artistry even begins.

• Start with primer. A formula like Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion creates a thin, flexible film that grips pigment for hours and prevents shadow from transferring into the crease.

• Even things out. Add a lightweight concealer to neutralize redness or discoloration on the lid. Opt for one that sets down matte so it doesn’t add extra slip.

• Extra staying power. If your lids tend to be oily, finish with a dusting of translucent powder to reduce shine and extend wear time.

  
  

With this prep, your eyeshadow stays vibrant, crease-free, and visible—no matter how hooded your eyes are.

Step 2: Master Strategic Eyeshadow Placement

Eyes open. Mirror ready. Let’s map out your masterpiece. P.S - make sure to use the right eyeshadow!

When it comes to hooded eyes, placement is more important than pigment. Celebrity makeup artist Sir John explains:

“For hooded eyes, the key is to keep the crease work slightly above the natural fold, so it’s still visible when the eyes are open.”

This means your transition shade shouldn’t go into the crease, but just above it, blended upward. That way, the shadow is still seen instead of vanishing under the lid.

Makeup artist Drita Paljevic of Kevyn Aucoin Beauty also recommends matte over shimmer:

“Use a matte eyeshadow three to four shades darker than the base and blend it well. Place eyeshadow over the hooded area and smudge eyeliner to avoid accentuating droopy lids.” 

Here’s how to put it all together:

• Fake a crease: Choose a matte neutral a few shades deeper than your skin tone and blend it slightly above your fold.

• Strategic shimmer: Save shimmer for the mobile lid center and inner corners only — this brightens without making lids look heavier.

• Lift the eye: Use concealer under the outer corner in an upward motion to sharpen and subtly lift the look.

  
  

Pro tip from Sir John: Always check your work with your eyes open, not closed. This ensures your placement actually shows once the lid naturally folds.

Step 3: Define Without Overwhelming

Eyeliner can be transformative—but on hooded eyes, subtle strategy is everything.

Celebrity makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes suggests approaching liner placement with eyes open:

“Look straight ahead and apply your eyeliner with your eyes open; once you have the wings sketched out, you can close your eye to finish.” 

That way, the line stays visible instead of disappearing under the fold.

For the most flattering results:

• Tightline the upper waterline to make lashes look fuller without stealing lid space.

• Draw mini wings. A thin, subtle flick at the outer edge elongates the eye without overwhelming it.

• Smudge the lower lash line. A soft wash of shadow gives definition without harshness.

• Stick to waterproof formulas. Eyeliners like Eyeko Skinny Liquid or L’Oréal Infallible Grip won’t transfer when lids touch.

  
  

Step 4: Lift with Lashes and Brows

Once your shadow and liner are in place, lashes and brows act as the finishing lift. They frame the eyes and create structure, crucial for hooded lids that can sometimes look heavy.

• Curl and lengthen. An eyelash curler followed by a lengthening, waterproof mascara (like L’Oréal Telescopic or UKLASH) instantly opens the eye. Waterproof formulas hold the curl longer because they’re less likely to soften or slide throughout the day.

• Try half lashes or clusters. Instead of full strips, place small lash segments on the outer corners. This adds lift and elongates the eye without overwhelming the lid.

• Shape upward. Brows are your secret scaffolding. Brush them slightly upward and keep the arch soft—not severe—to visually raise the entire eye area.

  
  

Why it works: Lifted lashes create vertical space, while softly arched brows create horizontal balance. Together, they counteract the droop of a hooded lid and give the illusion of a brighter, more open gaze.

Step 5: Smart Product Choices & Hacks

Hooded eyes benefit from a few clever swaps that keep makeup looking crisp and intentional all day. The key is choosing products that stay where you put them and tools that give you precision.

Tubing mascaras are a game-changer. Instead of painting pigment onto lashes, they wrap each one in a tiny film that resists smudging, even when lids touch throughout the day. Beauty editors at L’Oréal Paris call them essential for humid climates and long wear, since they last for hours but slip off easily with warm water at night.

Creamy textures can be tricky. A rich concealer or glossy shadow often looks beautiful for the first hour, then begins sliding into folds. A light dusting of translucent powder over creams helps lock them in place, creating a smoother, longer-lasting finish.

For those seeking an instant lift, invisible eyelid tape remains a backstage favorite. It creates the illusion of a crease within seconds and is especially useful for photos or special events where you want maximum definition.

And don’t underestimate your tools. Slim, detail brushes give you surgical precision, ensuring shadow is placed exactly in the outer V or along the lash line - two zones where placement makes the biggest impact on hooded eyes.

Step 6: A Flattering Hooded Eye Makeup Routine (Recap)

Here’s the full routine brought together — simple, strategic, and designed to keep your makeup visible all day:

1. Prep & prime: Smooth on eyeshadow primer and a touch of concealer for a crease-proof base.

2. Define the lash line: Tightline the upper waterline to create the illusion of fuller lashes.

3. Create a lifted crease: Blend a matte shade slightly above your natural fold for dimension.

4. Add brightness: Press shimmer onto the lid’s center and the inner corner only.

5. Keep liner subtle: A slim wing at the outer edge elongates without closing off the eye.

6. Lift and frame: Finish with waterproof mascara for hold and softly arched brows for balance.

Bonus Tip: Practice with Your Eyes Open

One of the most common mistakes people make with hooded eyes is applying makeup with eyes closed—only to realize later that it all disappeared under the fold.

Keep your eyes open while mapping out your crease, blending, and lining. Pause between steps to check visibility. It may take some practice, but it makes a world of difference.

Final Thoughts

Hooded eyes are beautiful, expressive, and completely unique. With the right makeup strategies, they can be enhanced—not hidden.

Whether you're aiming for an everyday polished look or full glam, the key is to lift, define, and keep everything in place. Armed with these tips, tools, and product suggestions, you can finally take the guesswork out of hooded eye makeup.

Say goodbye to smudges, disappearing shadow, and droopy liner—and hello to a lifted, luminous gaze that stays exactly where you want it.